Bramble

Houston foodies have closely monitored Randy Rucker’s various restaurant endeavors over the years, starting with his ahead-of-the-times laidback manor to Bootsie’s Cafe in Tomball.  Chef Rucker has returned to the Memorial Area (yes, outside the loop but at least within the city of Houston) in a former Italian restaurant on Voss near San Felipe.  Just opened a few weeks, Bramble, like Rucker’s prior restaurants, highlights local ingredients in a casual, contemporary setting.  We understand the menu changes regularly and, understandably, with a new place trying to get its footing, the menu offerings were somewhat limited.   The cocktail program needs a little work as we didn’t find our drinks as balanced as we’d like (one with rum and the other with bourbon).  The wine list was small but reasonably priced.  We had no issues with the prompt and courteous service.

On the evening we were there, for starters, we tried the roasted corn with cotilla cheese (delicious) and the roasted sunchokes (well executed, but a little bland).   For our main courses, we went with the marinated grilled quail and shrimp and grits.  Both dishes were quite tasty but under cooked.  We sent the quail back, and it improved with some more time on the grill.  We couldn’t fault the creamy grits and sauce, but one of the three jumbo, heads on shrimp was close to raw.  We fully appreciate a chef’s concern about not overcooking the ingredients, but a little more time turning out the main courses would have been a good thing.  Perhaps the highlight of the evening was the pickled greens au gratin side dish; the rich cheese was a delicious foil to the tartness of the greens.

We’d read a review of Bramble that suggested Chef Rucker is playing it safe compared with the dishes he turned out in his prior life.  We don’t really fault him for that, particularly with a new restaurant.  But the pickled greens dish hinted to us of the creativity for which this chef is known.   And we’d note that we really liked Rainbow Lodge during Chef Rucker’s brief stint there where he managed to beautifully execute (with a twist) a number of more traditional dishes.

No reservations (we got there early and the place filled up quickly) and parking wasn’t a problem.

2231 S. Voss

832/819-0332

www.restaurantbramble.com

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