Monthly Archives: November 2014

Pax Americana

Foodie buzz preceded this opening on Montrose in a former Thai restaurant which also housed an early Monica Pope place.  A number of well known folks in the Houston restaurant scene are behind this restaurant — the Zimmermans (La Colombe d’Or), Shepherd Ross (Glass Wall, BAC), and Ryan Pera (Revival Market).

An inviting bar, outdoor patio seating and glassed in kitchen in the dining area make for a welcome addition to the trend in creative contemporary cooking.  The serving sizes are small and designed for sharing.  The limited menu changes regularly.   Creative cocktails and an interesting beer and wine list.

On a recent visit, we enjoyed the goat cheese ricotta, mild and creamy, served with toasted Common Bond bread.  On our next visit, the ricotta had disappeared, but the roasted bone marrow remained (also served with Common Bond bread), and it was excellent on both occasions.   Gone from the menu, but not forgotten, was an intensely flavored mushroom risotto, which, given the intensity of the flavors, was probably the best dish we’ve tried.   We also enjoyed the sliced sirloin which, although, appropriately cooked, perhaps needed some additional seasoning or a more interesting sauce to support that lean but not super flavorful cut of meat.  Faring better was the octopus that appeared on our second visit. Cooked sous vide and then wood grilled, it was quite tasty (although not as good as the gold standard at Caracol).  Friends enjoyed the grouper and brisket.  And we tried the dark chocolate filled donut holes,  with an interesting addition of pigs blood in the chocolate, adding a noticeably tang that seemed more of a novelty than a beneficial addition.  Credit to the server for pointing out this ingredient as a heads up to any vegetarians who don’t speak Italian (and, thus, weren’t clued in by the description “sanguinaccio fritters”). 

Reservations are recommended; parking is a little tricky in the area, but there’s a complimentary valet behind the restaurant off the side street to the immediate south.

4319 Montrose Blvd
(713) 239-0228

www.paxamericanahtx.com

London/Dublin

London Update (2014) — 

Harwood Arms — probably our favorite restaurant of the trip; owned by the same folks as The Ledbury; upscale gastropub in comfortable, casual setting; amazing beef and fish, scotch egg; reservations are a must, well in advance.

Berners Tavern — trendy upscale steakhouse vibe to this very popular, close to the theater district area restaurant; velvet rope entrance with doorman; delicious beef tenderloin for two, sided by short rib mac ‘n cheese

Green Man & French Horn — another favorite that we had read about in the NYT before our trip; located in the theater district, we dined after a performance; contemporary take on traditional French dishes; think rillettes, veal tongue, rabbit terrine, duck egg & anchovy on toast; small plates, great for sharing.

Gordon Ramsey — our splurge dinner was worth the money; great, unpretentious service; multi-course prix fix menu; nothing disappointed; pleased to see a female head chef; a little hard to access from public transportation but the walk was a welcome addition.

Roux at Parliament Square —  Michel Roux’s second location; lovely, formal setting; we enjoyed the multi-course, prix fix lunch

Rules — theater area restaurant, claims to be the oldest restaurant in London; somewhat dated around the edges; traditional British fare; lovely setting, average food

Here are some of the highlights from our 2012 trip to London

Kitchen W8 — this small, unpretentious one Michelin-starred restaurant in the High Street Kensington area turned out to be one of our favorites; the chef is a master with fish and the understanding of combination of ingredients–smoked anchovy starter followed by pan seared sea trout and roasted cod, beautifully cooked, sauced and presented;  not as pricey as the other high-end restaurants where we dined

Claridge’s — a lovely old-line hotel (restaurant run by Gordon Ramsey) where we enjoyed Sunday lunch; immaculate but friendly service; couldn’t resist the traditional Sunday Roast entree; experience only marred by $24 charge for a gin & tonic (half the cost of the multi-course fixed price lunch); jeans are allowed but seemed out of place  [2014 Update:  new chef, getting great reviews, we haven’t tried it]

The Ledbury — one of the most highly rated restaurants in London (two Michelin stars); high-end French, 3-course tasting menu; polished but not pretentious service; unfortunately, we just weren’t wowed by the food we tried one evening; nothing disappointed (although dover sole entree was slightly overcooked), but we didn’t leave raving about the experience

Petrus — another very popular French restaurant (also run by Gordon Ramsey) where we participated in a lunchtime master chef cooking class and dined at the chef’s table in the kitchen; food was delicious (although limited by the basic items (seared scallops, roast chicken) that we actually cooked ourselves, with the chefs’ guidance, in the kitchen)

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal — also very highly rated celebrity chef’s new eponymous restaurant in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel (one Michelin star, compared to three at Blumenthal’s Fat Duck); dishes are based on traditional British recipes dating back to the 16th century, making the menu a fun read; food was delicious and unique (chicken liver pate shaped like a mandarin orange (one of the signature dishes), chicken oyster “salamagundy”, pork chop and roast turbot); only real miss was the “quaking pudding” dessert that was graciously deleted from the bill; also enjoyed unique cocktails in the adjoining hotel bar which is quite the social and business scene

The Goring — located right next to Buckingham Palace, we had a lovely champagne High Tea in the lobby bar at this traditional hotel where the service was immaculate and the food delicious and abundant (a savory amuse bouche (crab and crawfish gelee said to be the Queen Mother’s favorite), together with all you can eat finger sandwiches, scones and clotted cream, and pastries, finishing with a mini trifle)

The Delaunay — very popular new theater area restaurant owned by the same folks who have the long-time Ivy; dined after seeing War Horse (highly recommended); menu has an emphasis on British and German standards, so we enjoyed smoked sausage soup, liverwurst, grilled sausages with sauerkraut and potato salad, and Buck Rarebit (welsh rarebit topped with a fried egg)

Tate Modern Restaurant — nice view of London from the 7th floor of the museum; food was well below average and overpriced; just get a sandwich at the cafe next door and don’t bother with the sit-down service

Borough Market  — touted as London’s lunchtime foodie market, located near the Tate Modern and London Bridge; good choices for take-home, but we weren’t particularly impressed with the options for on-site food, and there’s little seating

Ping Pong —  looking for a quick bite one rainy evening before the Ceremony of the Keys at the Tower of London (highly recommended), we wandered into this casual, local chain dim sum restaurant; service was prompt and the dim sum was freshly prepared and quite good

And from our 2012 stop in Dublin —

Bang —  popular restaurant serving modern Irish cuisine in a casual, contemporary setting; a great choice, particularly in light of the high-end dining we’d just experienced in London; started with a generous crock of rabbit and ham hock rillettes and the deep fried hen’s egg with blood sausage, followed by entrees of Irish beef ribeye and pan-fried local cod

Eden —  also emphasizing modern Irish cuisine in a casual, contemporary setting; another great choice, we enjoyed Eden Smokies (smoked haddock topped decadently with melted cheese), confit duck breast salad, pork shoulder cassoulet (otherwise great but marred by undercooked beans), and very nicely prepared rack of lamb

Bull & Castle  — somewhat a tourist pub directly across from Christ Church Cathedral, but the food was very good; great fish ‘n chips and steamed mussels.